Chanderi is also famous for its weaving that emerged around 13th century and its history is incomplete without mention of Chanderi weaving.
The thin translucent fabric, with undegummed silk at warp and cotton at weft, was favorite among royalties of the time, as it gave relief from heavily woven traditional silk fabrics in soaring temperatures of Madhya Pradesh. Use of un-degummed or raw silk yarn at warp or tana give fabric its desired lightness and transparency. However, Due to un-degummed silk warp, the fabric texture is somehow not very soft. Silk of 16/18 to 20/22 Denier count is used. Golden, silver and copper shade zari are used for extra warp designs in border and extra weft designs in palla/mundhani/upper-half and body. Once real gold and silver zari were used but now silver and golden threads made of metallic alloy are used. Real gold and silver zari are also used but only on demand.
Weaving is done on pit as well as frame loom fitted with jala designing technique. As per Handloom Census Data, Number of handlooms are 4352 and 13056 weavers.
Though cheap polyster made imitation chanderis are also available in market, yet original hasn’t lost its charm.
Besides these authentic zariwork patterns, plain saris, dupatta and dress-material with zari border are also made to be embellished further with embroideries, tie & dye, and block-printing.
Lightweight, Elegant and comfortable Silk by linen Sari. Linen is a fabric obtained from plant flax or linseed and is valued for its exceptional properties like light-weight, softness, absorption that keeps skin cool and fresh.
Pure Mulbarry silk at warp and linen at weft with ghicha silk palla and zari border.
Craft- Handloom woven at Bhagalpur handloom Cluster.
Half-half, Black and mustard-yellow Silk by Linen Saree with zari border and ghicha palla.
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Bagru is a small city near Jaipur, Rajasthan, India, Known for its art of textile printing using natural dyes and handcarved wooden blocks. The tradition of bagru block printing is centuries old and has been kept alive by “Chippa community.” Chippa is derived from word chapa which means impression. The community is concentrated in locality kown as “Chippo ka mohalla”
The process of block printing involves many steps starting from making of blocks. Patterns of flora, fauna and geometrical patterns are drawn paper and then traced on flat surfaced wooden pieces. The patterns are then hand-carved with high precision. Printing single textile involves use of many block, sometimes upto 20 or more. The blocks have to be carved with such detailing and precision that one block fits and complements other to complete a pattern
The undyed fabric is then soaked in muddy water and then sun dried. The process rids fabric of starch and other impurities and makes it more absorbent for colors too. The dried fabric is then laid on long table and an artist, with a trolly beside him carrying color soaked sponge and blocks, starts printing.
Fabric laid on table
Dries fabric is straightened and made wrinkle free and then laid on long table, secured with wax.
The printer, with a trolly containing colours and blocks travels along the length of table and prints fabric with high precision.
Designs with different colours are printed in different steps. First colour and sun-drying, then another colour with different block and sun-drying and so on. Finally its washed to remove excess colours, dipped in fixant like alum(though most of hand-dyed fabrics colour-bleed as harsh artificial colour-pigments and fixants are not used.
Just like many other similar labour-intensive work this industry is also suffering set-back due to cheap machine made fabrics. On Hand-dyed fabrics, wrong-side also has faint prints, unlike machine-prints which are white.
So next time when you are offered a price to-good-to-be true, please think about these perishing traditional art-forms.
India, magical India, majestic India. There’s a Hindi saying illustrating diversity of Indian culture that goes: Kos kos pe badale pani, char kos pe vani (the taste of water changes after one mile and the dialect of people changes after four miles). These regional diversities as well various cultural groups that entered India throughout history, have greatly influenced art, architecture and lifestyle of its people. The history of art and crafts of India is as old as the civilization itself. Indian art and craft are known for their intricate workmanship, delicate nature and exclusive designs.
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